Mia Cucina, we’re big fans. No really, we’re not just saying it. We talk up your Margherita pizza all the time, and love your lasagna. In fact, we’ve drunk dialled you with the munchies on several occasions, and even scratched your name on another’s wood fire oven once. So naturally, when we heard about your newly launched weekend brunch, all impending Sunday plans were cancelled – naps, nookie and other noon-day niceties. With friends roped in and restraining order ignored, we came over right away, hearts aflutter and stars in our eyes.

Of Diets and Deities

Unfortunately, the pedestal we’d constructed so carefully came crashing down. Sunday brunch at this otherwise fabulous Italian bistro in Bandra comprises of a disappointingly restricted list taped to the front page of the menu with an unremarkable selection of food and wine cocktails.

We began with a round of mimosas to brighten up the table along with other sunny spots including the fruit and feta salad and egg frittatas. A mix of rocket leaves, cheese and baked apple, the salad was a sacred union of fruit and cheese. The frittatas – eggy quiches with gorgonzola and mushrooms or chicken sausages – were delish, but way too expensive at Rs 350 each. Give us the yum Rs 85 masala omelette at Basilico next door any day. If you still insist on getting these, trade in the accompanying dry buns for Cucina’s regular bread, and ask for a side of salsa.

Flash in a Pan

Stepping up to the plate next was a grilled rib eye steak, picked from a list of stone baked pizza with egg, char grilled chicken and sea bass. With gorgonzola butter and sautéed spinach, it was juicy and flavourful but like the rest of our meal, not spectacular. We skipped the banana cake and pear torte for French toast, a stack of three thick slices of bread topped with stewed apples and a smattering of cinnamon. Meh.

Brunch, Drunk, (No) Love

So will we return next Sunday? Of course. For ribeye steak? No. Just the plain old Margherita pie, a bottle of white and our favourite Tiramisu. It’s not like the brunch dishes here aren’t tasty, but they’re nothing compared to Mia Cucina’s much-loved staples. Sunday brunch should be about a long buffet table with beautiful food and the misty haze of unlimited drinks. The version here doesn’t even come close.

Getting there: Mia Cucina, 16/17, Gasper Enclave, St John Street, Pali Naka, next to Papa Pancho, Bandra (W), call 66710158, brunch for approximately Rs 1,500 per head with alcohol.