A coin-sized peppermint lay in the dish before us. Shouldn’t this come at the end of the meal? Before we could voice the thought, a waiter poured water over the tablet, and it spiraled and grew into a wet napkin roll!

Fingers wiped clean, we wondered if the magic would continue at Punjab Grill, the brand new Indian restaurant at Lower Parel. Sitting under a dreamy, cascading chandelier, watching druid-like chefs stir giant copper cauldrons in an open kitchen, it felt like it would.

Shots, Anyone?
Page one of the menu at this elegant eatery promised treats from undivided Punjab, borrowing influences from Sikh, Pathan, Punjabi and Hindu cooking. Akshay, our steward for the afternoon insisted that we start with the Kurkuri, six Indian-style spring rolls that came in individual shot glasses, pre-dipped in the most delicious sweet chilli sauce. The melted cheese, mushrooms, pine nuts and sun dried tomato melded together into one of the best, most unusual appetisers we’ve had in a long time. These we washed down with refreshing, fiery Shikanjvi, Punjabi lemonade with salt and pepper.

Delhi-catessen
Punjab Grill features meats that most Indian restaurants stay away from. Here, you can have duck, scallops and lobster, all marinated in Tandoori masalas. We opted instead, for the more traditional Raan Hari Singh Nalwa: Lamb in ostentatious gravy cooked with cumin, cinnamon, nutmeg and spiked with rum. It tasted grand, as did the Dal Makhani, smoky and rich. The Paneer Kadhai on the other hand, was overly sweet with no signs of the vibrant spices that its description promised. Remember, the portions here are humongous, a fact that left us with no room for dessert. Our finger bowls, held in edgy silver saucers was a nice final touch.

Table Scanners
Our appetites satisfied, we looked around the restaurant, taking in the setting – understated cream walls and chic mini room-like booths, offset by flashy chandeliers. Full credit to Delhi-based restaurateur Jiggs Kalra, who’s kept his latest venture away from all the trappings of a mall restaurant – not once during our meal did we feel like we were in one of city’s busiest shopping complexes, in a neighbourhood chaotic with shoppers, offices and stores.

But the luxury does come at a price. With an average dish costing Rs 400, get ready to shell out at least Rs 700 per head. More with alcohol, we found when the bill arrived. We suppose the magic had to end sometime.

Getting there: 3rd floor, Palladium Mall, High Street Phoenix, Lower Parel, call 43473981, Rs 1,400 for a meal for two.

At Brown Paper Bag, we review restaurants anonymously and pay for our own meals.

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